The setup glossary · Tyre pressures

Optimal tyre pressures

Pressure is the lever that decides how the tyre sits on the road and where it lives on its temperature window. Learn why cold and hot pressure differ, what the hot window is, and how the engineers read it off your telemetry instead of guessing.

Cold pressure vs hot pressure — mind the gap

There are two pressures, and confusing them is the most common tyre mistake there is. Cold pressure is the number you dial into the garage before you run — the "set" pressure. Hot pressure is what the tyre actually reaches once it has heated up on track: as the tyre flexes and the carcass warms, the air inside expands and the pressure climbs several units above the cold value.

The gap matters because grip lives at the hot pressure, not the cold one. The tyre only performs once it is up to temperature, so the cold number is just a means to an end — you set it on purpose so that the tyre lands inside its hot window when warm. Set the cold pressure by feel and you are aiming at the wrong target.

Lever: tyre pressure is the contact-patch + tyre-temperature-window lever. You don't tune the cold number for its own sake — you set it so the hot pressure lands in the window where the tyre grips best.

The hot pressure window — where grip peaks

Every compound, on every car, has a narrow band of hot running pressure where the tyre reaches its grip peak. That band is the hot pressure window, and the whole game is landing inside it. Sit above it or below it and you leave grip on the table — and you usually overheat part of the tread while you're at it.

The window is the target, not a recipe. It moves with compound, car, track temperature and load — which is exactly why a fixed pressure number copied from someone else rarely lands you in your window.

Pressure shapes the contact patch — read it with camber

Pressure decides how the tyre's footprint — the contact patch — sits on the road, and that footprint is where every bit of grip comes from. Under-inflated, the patch bulges at the shoulders and goes light in the middle, so the edges do too much work and run hot. Over-inflated, the patch crowns up so the middle carries the load and the shoulders go light, so the centre runs hot. Right in the window, the load is spread evenly and the whole tread works at the same temperature.

This is why pressure is never read alone. Pressure and camber together shape the inner / middle / outer temperature spread across the tread. Camber tilts the tyre so it sits flat under cornering load; pressure sets how the patch bulges or crowns. Read the three-zone temperature spread and you can tell which of the two is off — and the engineers always read them as a pair, never one in isolation.

how pressure shapes the contact patch & tread temperatures too LOW rolls over · shoulders hot IN THE WINDOW flat patch · even temps too HIGH crowns up · middle hot
Too low and the tyre rolls over onto its shoulders; too high and the patch crowns onto its middle. In the window the patch sits flat and the tread heats evenly — the spread is read together with camber.

Pressure as a balance lever — front/rear and left/right

Once both axles are roughly in their window, the front-versus-rear pressure split becomes a fine balance lever. Push one axle out of its window and it loses grip relative to the other — too much front pressure can add understeer, too much rear can free the rear and add oversteer. Inside the window the effect is subtle; the moment you stray outside it, the effect is large and the tyre starts to overheat, so this lever lives at the edges of the window, not deep inside it.

There is a second axis on certain tracks. On ovals and circuits with long, single-direction corners, one side of the car works far harder than the other and heats its tyres more. That is where a left-versus-right pressure split earns its keep — you can bleed pressure off the side that is building heat and pressure fastest so both sides land in the window together. On a normal road course with corners both ways, you keep left and right symmetric.

Pressure balance is fine-tuning, not a shortcut. Get both axles into their window first; only then nudge the split. It is never a substitute for fixing balance with the anti-roll bars or springs.

Start cold, build into the window — over a stint

Because pressure climbs as the tyre heats, you don't set the pressure you want — you set a cold pressure that grows into the one you want. The tyre builds pressure over the first few laps, then settles once it reaches a steady running temperature. The target is to have it land in the window when hot and stay there for the bulk of the stint, not just for one flying lap.

Set a cold pressure — a sensible starting cold value for the compound and car.
Run a few laps — let the tyre come up to temperature and the pressure stabilise.
Read the hot pressure — compare it to the target window: above, below, or in it?
Adjust the cold setting — hot too high → drop the cold pressure; hot too low → raise it. Then run again.
The logic is simple: you tune the cold number, but you judge it by the hot result. Raise cold to push hot up, drop cold to bring hot down — and re-check over a real stint, because heat keeps building.

What the engineers read — then prescribe

Pressure is only the right answer once you know where the tyre sits on its window and how its tread is heating. SimRace.app pulls your full setup and a stand of specialist race engineers log the telemetry — they read your hot pressures against the target window and the cross-tread temperatures (inner / middle / outer) for each corner, so they can see whether you are low, high or in the window, and whether the tyre is rolling over or crowning.

From that they prescribe the move: the cold change that lands the hot pressure in the window, and whether a tread that is hot on one zone is a pressure problem or a camber one. They watch it over a stint too — a tyre that starts in the window and climbs out of it is a different fix from one that never gets there. And because pressure couples to heat, they read it alongside how hard you are working the tyres in braking, which ties into the brake thermal window as well.

The point of a data-driven engineer over guesswork: it tells you whether your pressure is even the problem — versus camber, or simply a tyre being overworked — before you touch the number, and hands you the change one step at a time.

FAQ

What's the difference between cold and hot tyre pressure?

Cold pressure is the number you set in the garage before running. Hot pressure is what the tyre reaches once it has heated up on track — the air inside expands as the tyre works, so the pressure climbs several units above the cold value. The gap matters because grip lives at the hot pressure, not the cold one: you set a cold pressure on purpose so the tyre lands inside its hot window once it's up to temperature.

What is the hot tyre pressure window?

Every compound and car has a narrow band of hot running pressure where the tyre reaches its grip peak — that band is the hot pressure window. Too low and the tyre rolls over onto its shoulders, feels sluggish and overheats the edges; too high and the contact patch crowns onto its middle, the tyre goes skittish and loses mechanical grip while the centre overheats. The job is to set a cold pressure that lands the hot pressure inside that window.

How does tyre pressure change the contact patch?

Pressure decides how the tyre's footprint sits on the road. Under-inflated, the patch bulges at the shoulders and goes light in the middle, so the edges overheat. Over-inflated, the patch crowns up so the middle carries the load and the shoulders go light, overheating the centre. The right pressure spreads the load evenly across the tread, which is why pressure and camber are read together — both shape the inner, middle and outer temperature spread.

Can I use tyre pressure to change car balance?

Yes. Front-versus-rear pressure is a balance lever, because pushing one axle out of its window costs it grip relative to the other. Within the window the effect is subtle; outside it, it's large. On ovals and tracks with long single-direction corners, left-versus-right pressure is used too, since one side of the car works far harder. It's a fine-tuning lever, not a substitute for getting both axles into their window first.

How do I get my tyres into the pressure window?

Start cold and let the pressure build. If your hot pressure ends up above the window, drop the cold setting; if it lands below, raise the cold setting — then run a few laps and read the hot pressure again. SimRace.app's engineers read your hot pressures against the target window and the temperature spread across each tread off the telemetry, then prescribe the cold change that lands you in the window once the tyre is up to temperature.

The setup glossary

Tyre pressure is one lever among several that shape the contact patch and the tyre's temperature. Read the rest, one page at a time:

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